Monday, May 5, 2014

Bangus in Perspective: An interview with a Dagupeno Masterchef

Inihaw na bangus – a very tangy and delicious dish that anyone can prepare easily. ©pinoysrecipesonline

What is the promise of Dagupan? What are people looking for in this place? What are they selling that brings people across the oceans, the mountains, and the parched wasteland?

Sure. You can hear karaoke belters on the afternoon; try the famous pigar-pigar; and visit a streak of crowded pubs along downtown dancing to Katy Perry’s Fireworks. And then there’s laughter. It’s always possible.

But that’s not why one come here, is it?

By the time a road trip is drawing to a close, reluctantly bidding goodbye to Alaminos’ Hundred Islands or Calasiao’s golden rice cakes called puto, one that surely completes the last dregs of a savory experience in Pangasinan is by eating bangus – dinaing, pinaksiw, sinigang, inihaw or whatever preparation it goes through; patrons never get cloyed of its mighty flavor.

With the city’s celebration of its annual festivity, Bangus Festival, it promised to jumpstart another decade of feasting on bountiful seafood harvest and earmarking its grandeur as it goes bigger, better, and international. Bangusine, which stands for International Bangus Cuisine Showdown, is one of its anticipated highlight events where foreign students prepare dishes out of bangus according to their culinary customs.

A past master to these kinds of competitions, Melchor Corpuz is famed for consistently bagging the championship title. Exposed to the world of food, he creates something that’s surprisingly characteristic yet appetizing.


Cupcakes are the new cakes. Everywhere you turn to, pastry chefs are on vogue of this budding venture. And Melchor saw the same exciting opportunity in cupcake making.

Focus Weekly, on a chase of the self- instructed chef, found him via Facebook on a casual dining restaurant in Saudi Arabia (where he works as a Chef de Partie.)

FOCUS: Was cooking an initial passion of yours or you develop it while growing up? What program/s did you take to maximize your culinary prowess?

MELCHOR: When I was young, I always wanted to be a doctor. I know most kids do. However, growing up in a restaurant and being exposed to cooking and restaurant operations changed that. I started my passion for cooking at a very young age. I’m greatly influenced by my parents who themselves are great cooks. Growing up, my guardian wants me to become a nurse but with strong will, I managed to convince her that I wanted to become a Chef or a Restaurateur. So I took up Hotel and Restaurant Management.
                       
F: Who were your inspirations? And what made you pursue this career?

M: I would say my parents and relatives. Most of my relatives are great cooks. When I was in college, I was given the privilege to have a six-month apprenticeship in Raffles Hotel, one of the grandest hotels in Singapore. I had a great time over there. Working in a nice environment with great chefs and practicing culinary arts at its finest; I don’t want to leave any longer. But then I need to come back and finish my study. While pursuing my college degree, my passion for cooking fired up. I joined culinary competitions. I watched Youtube videos, and did some research and a lot of studying.

F: What competition has put your name in the culinary walk of fame? What was the winning recipe?

M: My greatest feats would be the Bangus Festival Competitions. My first winning recipe is the Fettuccini with Creamy Bangus Sauce, and then followed by my Bangus Rolls which have been featured in one of GMA Kapuso Shows called 100% Pinoy.

F: When joining competitions, what preparations do you make?

M: I don’t do kitchen test simply because I don’t have the financial means to do so. What I do is, I go online and watch a lot of videos. One example would be my lechon making experience. I never tried doing lechon before. I watched a lot of videos. I talked to some chefs that I admire via Twitter and some lechoneros in the city.
                            
F: Now that you’ve finally achieved your reverie as a professional chef (who now works in a casual dining restaurant in Saudi Arabia), what comes next?

M: I’m currently on training to become a sous chef. Hopefully after six months, I will become one. But I won’t stop until I become an Executive Chef.

F: To start-up food entrepreneurs out there, what advice would you like to tell them?

M: When you fail to prepare, prepare to fail. Plan. Do some research. Study, study, study. Ask people who are already in the business.

Corpuz’s connection to his roots is seen in his food, acquainting foreign tongues with Filipino flavors – whether it’s lechon kawali for a crispy pork fix, he can make it happen. Here’s a list of his winning recipes on last year’s 101 Ways to Cook Seafood, firstly revealed in Focus.


East Meets West
A delectable Shrimp soup with malunggay and squash served with Shrimp Cannelloni


QUANTITY
MEASUREMENT
INGREDIENT
100
Grams
Fresh egg pasta
5
Tablespoons
Vegetable oil
100
Grams
White onion, minced
50
Grams
Garlic, minced
250
Grams
Shrimp, minced
2
Pieces
Bouillon cubes
1
Can
Evaporated milk
1
Pack
All Purpose Cream
100
Grams
Quickmelt cheese, cubed
½
Cup
Malunggay leaves, blanched
1
Cup
Squash, sliced, cooked
1
Tablespoon
Thyme
1
Tablespoon
Basil
1
Sachet
Seasoning
1
Tablespoon
All Purpose Cream
1
Tablespoon

1
Cup
Quickmelt cheese, grated
½
Cup
Crispy shoestring potatoes
1
Pinch each
Salt and Pepper
Procedures:
  1. Using a pasta maker, make the cannelloni. Cook and set aside.
  2. Sauté the onion and garlic until translucent.
  3. Add the shrimp and sauté until half cook; take out some of the meat and set aside.
  4. Add the bouillon cubes and mix thoroughly.
  5. Add the milk and cream and let it boil.
  6. Add the cheese and lower the heat.
  7. Divide the soup mixture into two batches.
  8. On the first batch, add malunggay leaves and puree.
  9. On the second batch, add the squash; this will also be pureed.
  10. Put the processed soup into a separate pan and season with salt and pepper to taste.
  11. Let it simmer and add herbs.
  12. To make the shrimp cannelloni, sauté the shrimp that was set aside and season with seasoning. Add a little bit of all purpose cream and grated cheese to achieve thickness.
  13. Lay flat the cooked fresh egg pasta and spoon a shrimp mixture on one side and roll.
  14. Put the cannelloni in a serving bowl and top with the two pureed soup.
  15. Garnish with crispy shoestring potatoes.
Shrimp Progression
A platter of shrimp appetizer that consists of: 1) reconstructed shrimp soup; 2) grilled bacon-wrapped shrimp with mango oulis; 3) arabian nights shrimp in crispy potato skin; and 4) crispy shrimp with garlic aioli.

QUANTITY
MEASUREMENT
INGREDIENT
250
Grams
Shrimp, peeled,    deveined with tails intact
100
Grams
Left Over Shrimp Soup
1
Tablespoon
Gelatin, bloomed
100
Grams
Bacon
¼
Cup
Barbecue Sauce
1
Tablespoon
Mango Puree
½
Cup       
Peach Coulis
1
Tablespoon
Vegetable Oil
1
Tablespoon
Garlic, minced
2
Tablespoons
Onion, minced
2
Tablespoons
Tomato Sauce
1
Tablespoon
Cumin
1
Tablespoon
Turmeric
1
Tablespoon
All Purpose Cream
2
Tablespoon
Quickmelt cheese
10
Pieces
Crispy potato skin
2
Tablespoons
Cornstarch
2
Teaspoons
Garlic, minced
¼
Cup
Mayonnaise
1
Pinch each
Salt and pepper

Procedures:
  1. Simmer the leftover soup and add the bloomed gelatin. Mix thoroughly. Puree the soup.
  2. Prepare a thin kitchen hose; submerge in iced-water and a kitchen syringe.
  3. Using a kitchen syringe, pass the soup into the hose and let it sit on the ice-water.
  4. When set, use the syringe to push out the jelly out of the hose. Set aside.
  5. Wrap some of the shrimp with bacon. Set aside.
  6. For the marinade, mix barbecue sauce and mango puree.
  7. Marinate the bacon-wrapped shrimp and grill when already needed.
  8. Sauté the garlic and onion.
  9. Add the shrimp and heat through.
  10. Add the tomato sauce and season with cumin and turmeric powder.
  11. Add all purpose cream and cheese. Serve in crispy potato skin.
  12. Season cornstarch with salt and pepper and dredge the remaining shrimp. Deep-fry until cooked.
  13. To make the garlic aioli, mix the minced garlic and mayonnaise. Season with salt and pepper and a little bit of sugar.
  14. To serve, arrange in a platter the reconstructed soup, the bacon-wrapped shrimp served with peach coulis, the Arabian nights Shrimp and the deep fried shrimp with garlic Aioli.
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